With the Game 2 loss and the prospect of a tough game against Lee…I’m countering with Chang. David Chang has taken the downtown restaurant scene by storm over the past few years and like the Yanks he is pure NY. I first ate at Momofuku Noodle Bar just weeks after it opened and have been a big fan ever since. One of my favorite dishes in Chang’s arsenal is his chicken wings. Chang admits in his book that it is the “world’s longest recipe for chicken wings“, so I’m using the simplified version that CHOW concocted for the home cook. Eat wings…Go Yanks!
Momofuku Chicken Wings
20 chicken wings with wing tips attached
8 cups lukewarm water
1 c. sugar
1 c. kosher salt
2 strips smoky bacon
1/4 c. vegetable oil
5 c. rendered pork or duck fat
1 c. mirin
1 c. sake
1 c. light soy sauce
Ground black pepper
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
5-6 pickled chiles
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
1. Separate wings into 3 pieces (tips, wings, and drumettes) by cutting at both joints. Reserve wing tips for the tare.
2. Combine water, sugar, and salt in a large container with a tightfitting lid or a large resealable plastic bag (at least 4 quarts) and stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Add chicken wings and drumettes to brine mixture, cover, and refrigerate for 1 to 4 hours.
3.To make the tare, heat the oven to 400°F. Combine wing tips and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large oven-safe pan and toss to coat. Roast until wing tips are dark golden brown, about 1 hour.
4.Remove the pan from the oven, place over medium heat, and slowly add sake and soy sauce, scraping up any browned bits with a flat spatula. Simmer over medium heat until reduced by 1/2, about 40 minutes. Strain and set tare aside (discard the wing tips).
5.Once chicken wings and drumettes have finished brining, heat duck or pork fat in a large pot with a tightfitting lid over low heat until fat is 190°F to 200°F. Drain wings and drumettes from brine and pat dry with paper towels.
6.Add wings and drumettes to hot fat and cook, covered, over very low heat until just cooked through, about 30 to 40 minutes. (Don’t overcook the chicken; there should still be texture and bite to the meat.) When wings and drumettes are done, remove to a baking dish or baking sheet using a slotted spoon and reserve fat for another use.
7.When ready to finish wings and drumettes, heat the broiler to high and arrange a rack at the top. Broil wings and drumettes, rotating the pan halfway through, until skin is crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes.
8.Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Once shimmering, add garlic and chiles and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. (Make sure the garlic does not brown.) Add mirin and cook until the alcohol smell is gone, about 2 minutes. Add tare and reduce sauce to a light syruplike consistency, about 10 minutes.
9. Add wings and drumettes and pickled chiles and toss to coat, top with sliced scallions, and serve.